Re: [Cal_Boats] '83 CAL 35 - Leaking Toe Rail

Hello Joe, The 1984 Cal35 has thru-bolts through the aluminum toe rail, deck and inward hull flange. The deck and hull flange has something like 5200 sealant. I had a leak a few years ago that turned out to be around one of the bolts holding the starboard bow cleat. I did remove the teak facing for the v berth shelf, teak trim and vinyl covered board that hides the hull to deck joint to re-bed the cleat. I had to remove the port teak facing in order to remove the starboard one. The thru-bolts are like to ones that are visible in the cockpit locker. The attached images are of the fasteners and backing plate of the port bow cleat and hull to deck thru bolt. Regards, Tim In a message dated 3/21/2016 11:21:10 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com writes: Hey all, We had a bit of weather the last few days and I noticed a leak in the v berth coming from where I think is the fwd end of my toe rail. Before I start bringing down the headliner and joiner work I was wondering if any of you guys know if the fasteners holding in the toe rail are likely through bolted to the deck or tapped into the side of the hull? I am trying to gauge how much time I am going to need to re seal her and what I am going to need. She is a 1983 CAL 35 and I hope other CAL's built around the same time might have a similar toe rail arrangement. Thanks for the help! -Joe

Thanks Tim! That's what I was hoping to hear. I'll start going at it this weekend. Also, I'm in between 4200 and 5200 to use to re-bed, any preference between the two for a job like this? Thanks, -Joe

I didn't see any reply, so I wanted to chime in. 5200 - only if you never want to remove the toe rail again. 4000 - works well, prefer the UV as it helps chalking and deterioration. Caution any cleaners used to clean the teak, they may cause caulk to degrade. John Raxter > On Mar 23, 2016, at 2:56 PM, pe… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > Thanks Tim! > > That's what I was hoping to hear. I'll start going at it this weekend. Also, I'm in between 4200 and 5200 to use to re-bed, any preference between the two for a job like this? > > Thanks, > > -Joe > >

On 3/23/2016 4:01 PM, Jraxter jr… [at] triad.rr.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > > I didn't see any reply, so I wanted to chime in. > > 5200 - only if you never want to remove the toe rail again. > 4000 - works well, prefer the UV as it helps chalking and deterioration. Agree. 5200 is overrated as a cure-all. It has its place, but used wrong, it leads to a lot of future cursing. There's a also 4200,a lower-strength version, as well as 4000. The best practice is to engineer the fix so it's not inclined to leak again, not just to slather some miracle goo all over the problem. I've tried that approach ("oh, just temporarily, until i have time to do it right.") . Do it right the first time. Chris Campbell > >

Joe, In addition to the toe rail and bow cleat, the bow pulpit is thru bolted in the same area. The vinyl covered trim piece on the inside of the shelf hides the access the nuts. Regards, Tim In a message dated 3/21/2016 11:21:10 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com writes: Hey all, We had a bit of weather the last few days and I noticed a leak in the v berth coming from where I think is the fwd end of my toe rail. Before I start bringing down the headliner and joiner work I was wondering if any of you guys know if the fasteners holding in the toe rail are likely through bolted to the deck or tapped into the side of the hull? I am trying to gauge how much time I am going to need to re seal her and what I am going to need. She is a 1983 CAL 35 and I hope other CAL's built around the same time might have a similar toe rail arrangement. Thanks for the help! -Joe