Rudder cracks

Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY in the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks and was oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this problem but I would like to make it the last. My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying out the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the rudder. My problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? John B Gotcha Again Cal227 #650 Fleet Champion BHSC

most likely the water is coming from where the post extends out of the rudder. Try hanging your rudder upside down. My rudder on my 29 when I got had the sheathing split for about 1/2 it's length. I sanded off the skin, the foam was still in decent shape so I just put a few layers of cloth and west epoxy and it has held up for approx 10 years now. East cost cal 29 sailor On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 7:27 PM, John b je… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY in > the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks and was > oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this problem but I > would like to make it the last. > > My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying out > the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the rudder. My > problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? > > John B > Gotcha Again > Cal227 #650 > Fleet Champion BHSC > > >

Also inspect the seam where the steel enters the rudder, our 36 was threads from falling off, the crevice corrosion looked like someone had run a sanding disc edge into it all around. We saw light through that shaft, and when turned upside down, a live water plant poured out. That forced us to get a new Foss Rudder. But if the post (shaft) is good, and you want to take it home for the winter, I would clean and sand to gelcoat or lower, then drill holes (use a stop on yout drill) and if its been in saltwater, power wash wth fresh water and drain. Then try to keep it as warm (not hot) with circulating air till it dries. Weigh it to check maybe you can borrow a moisture meter. A vacuum bagging system would do well. Then, wipe off any residue, fill the holes and sand, prep and reglass. And bottompaint. Helen Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 4:38 PM, 'sailor7312 .' sa… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats]<Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: most likely the water is coming from where the post extends out of the rudder. Try hanging your rudder upside down. My rudder on my 29 when I got had the sheathing split for about 1/2 it's length. I sanded off the skin, the foam was still in decent shape so I just put a few layers of cloth and west epoxy and it has held up for approx 10 years now. East cost cal 29 sailor On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 7:27 PM, John b je… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY in the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks and was oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this problem but I would like to make it the last. My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying out the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the rudder. My problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? John B Gotcha Again Cal227 #650 Fleet Champion BHSC

On 9/22/2016 7:27 PM, John b je… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > > Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY > in the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks > and was oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this > problem but I would like to make it the last. > > My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying > out the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the > rudder. My problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? > My marina has a vacuum device specifically for drying out things like rudders. For most boats, it's an important issue that used to get a lot of discussion on this list. The problem is that stainless steel is only corrosion-resistant in the presence of oxygen. In an anoxic environment, as for example inside a fiberglass-covered rudder where there's no exposure to the air, it is subject to crevice corrosion. The stainless structure corrodes and then may fail suddenly (always at the worst possible moment). Some people with damaged or suspect rudders have done the work themselves. Cut it open; inspect and repair steel innards as needed; re-foam and re-seal. Others opt for one of the new rudders. The lesson seems to be that if your rudder is wet inside, maybe you shopuld worry. My Cal 20 has the cool old outboard mahogany rudder. Mahogany is corrosion-resistant, and pretty, too. My other boat, a 1961 Seafarer built in the Netherlands, has a rudder with all-bronze structure. (That's a blessing, because she can develop a pretty good weather helm under some conditions.) All of my instructions here are based on things I've read, mostly on this list. It's always helpful to learn from the misfortune of others. Chris Campbell

One of the guys here, Ron, who has a boat repair business used to work in Costa Mesa in the 60's shaping our rudders. He drilled a few holes and let it dry out for a month when I was out of the water last year and then re-glassed it. I didn't see water come out he was just checking. Last week I was making a turn and heard a stress noise from the tiller where it connects. I can't make it do it again. Any thoughts on what that would be? > On Sep 23, 2016, at 5:47 AM, ccampbell cc… [at] lsnm.org [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > >> On 9/22/2016 7:27 PM, John b je… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: >> Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY in the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks and was oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this problem but I would like to make it the last. >> >> My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying out the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the rudder. My problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? >> > > My marina has a vacuum device specifically for drying out things like rudders. > > For most boats, it's an important issue that used to get a lot of discussion on this list. The problem is that stainless steel is only corrosion-resistant in the presence of oxygen. In an anoxic environment, as for example inside a fiberglass-covered rudder where there's no exposure to the air, it is subject to crevice corrosion. The stainless structure corrodes and then may fail suddenly (always at the worst possible moment). > > Some people with damaged or suspect rudders have done the work themselves. Cut it open; inspect and repair steel innards as needed; re-foam and re-seal. Others opt for one of the new rudders. The lesson seems to be that if your rudder is wet inside, maybe you shopuld worry. > > My Cal 20 has the cool old outboard mahogany rudder. Mahogany is corrosion-resistant, and pretty, too. My other boat, a 1961 Seafarer built in the Netherlands, has a rudder with all-bronze structure. (That's a blessing, because she can develop a pretty good weather helm under some conditions.) > > All of my instructions here are based on things I've read, mostly on this list. It's always helpful to learn from the misfortune of others. > > Chris Campbell > >

Hi Chris My T/2 rudder was repaired at least twice and needed repair again. I thought I would try it myself until I began tearing it open. I decided to buy a new one from Foss in CA. I should have years ago. My sum total paid in the past for repairs would have bought a new rudder. The new T/2 rudder appears to be the Shumaker re-design and I like it. Behaves better in reverse. FYI, "Knot Ready"'s rudder was frsh water. On my Cal Cruising 36, It also had issues. I did a major repair to it about two years ago. It wasn't pretty like original, but was tough, at least on the outside. However, every time I was in rougher weather, the possibility of anaerobic corrosion in the rudder worried me, and I am suspecting the corrosion is worse with salt water intrusion but I don't know that for sure. Anyway, "Submit" also received a new upgraded rudder this year, from Foss in CA. It is possible to send your rudder away and have its shaft and flanges re-used in a new rudder but the price differential did not seem to be worth it and any invisible crevice corrosion would still be hiding there. I don't want to lose a rudder, and, as you say, it only happens at the worst time. I checked several sources for the new rudders and found Foss of CA to be the most reasonable. It is important to have the exact angles on the top of the rudder before ordering. Hope this helps. Reggie Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> on behalf of ccampbell cc… [at] lsnm.org [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 9:47 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; John b Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Rudder cracks On 9/22/2016 7:27 PM, John b je… [at] gmail.com<mailto:je… [at] gmail.com> [Cal_Boats] wrote: Today my boat was hauled for the season (with the temp in Buffalo NY in the low 80s) Inspecting my rudder I found it had some small cracks and was oozing water. This is not the first time I have had this problem but I would like to make it the last. My plan is to sand it down removing all paint and barrier coat, drying out the core then add a layer of glass and smooth and fair the rudder. My problem is how do I dry out the core? Any ideas? My marina has a vacuum device specifically for drying out things like rudders. For most boats, it's an important issue that used to get a lot of discussion on this list. The problem is that stainless steel is only corrosion-resistant in the presence of oxygen. In an anoxic environment, as for example inside a fiberglass-covered rudder where there's no exposure to the air, it is subject to crevice corrosion. The stainless structure corrodes and then may fail suddenly (always at the worst possible moment). Some people with damaged or suspect rudders have done the work themselves. Cut it open; inspect and repair steel innards as needed; re-foam and re-seal. Others opt for one of the new rudders. The lesson seems to be that if your rudder is wet inside, maybe you shopuld worry. My Cal 20 has the cool old outboard mahogany rudder. Mahogany is corrosion-resistant, and pretty, too. My other boat, a 1961 Seafarer built in the Netherlands, has a rudder with all-bronze structure. (That's a blessing, because she can develop a pretty good weather helm under some conditions.) All of my instructions here are based on things I've read, mostly on this list. It's always helpful to learn from the misfortune of others. Chris Campbell

We've got a Cal 2-27 that experiences what looks like expansion cracks if I leave it to freeze overwinter. I repaired the external cracks after removing all of the antifouling paint, ground open the cracks (almost all were only in the gelcoat), epoxy filler to fill the cracks, and finally several coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000E and two coats of antifouling. I just take the rudder off every winter and store in my basement. I'm certain it collects water during the sailing season. One day, Foss will get an order from me for a new rudder. In the meantime, I sail and try to avoid putting lots of stress on the rudder (and it's faster anyway). Harold Beer 1976 Cal 2-27 Hull #189 Arcturus - home ported in Muskegon, MI

Rudders painted dark colors and exposed to sunshine can expand and contract and create cracks or delamination. Reggie Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> on behalf of ha… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2016 2:36 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Rudder cracks We've got a Cal 2-27 that experiences what looks like expansion cracks if I leave it to freeze overwinter. I repaired the external cracks after removing all of the antifouling paint, ground open the cracks (almost all were only in the gelcoat), epoxy filler to fill the cracks, and finally several coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000E and two coats of antifouling. I just take the rudder off every winter and store in my basement. I'm certain it collects water during the sailing season. One day, Foss will get an order from me for a new rudder. In the meantime, I sail and try to avoid putting lots of stress on the rudder (and it's faster anyway). Harold Beer 1976 Cal 2-27 Hull #189 Arcturus - home ported in Muskegon, MI