Engine/prop shaft alignment question

Hello, Engine in, wiring connected, some new fuel and water lines and batteries on charger. While i'm waiting for that, i began the arduous chore of aligning the engine with the prop shaft. Engine and shaft are both rubber mounted. My question: the manual says .008 planar runout is the spec. I'm at .012 and am challenged to get it closer, even after moving engine around on stringers. If the rest is rubber mounted, and i can manually shake/deflect it by more than that, is .008 a little precise...for a rubber mounted system? Wont natural centrifugal motion align it? Or can then expect those buashings to tear themaelves up? Thanks. ...tom

My engine is hard mounted so I don't have the rubber mounts. The specification is that I cannot insert a .003 feeler gauge in any gap on the flange. I think you are getting credit for the rubber mounts in the .008 spec. What I had to do was measure the alignment horizontal, vertical, and tilt and then model it with a 3-d drawing and then move the engine in the cad program and see what shims I needed to get it where it should be. Alternatively, you can just add a shim and see if it helps or hurts and keep doing that until you are better than .008. Maybe someone else can answer the question you actually asked... On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 12:53 PM, TD tb… [at] verizon.net [Cal_Boats] < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > Hello, > Engine in, wiring connected, some new fuel and water lines and batteries > on charger. > While i'm waiting for that, i began the arduous chore of aligning the > engine with the prop shaft. > Engine and shaft are both rubber mounted. > My question: the manual says .008 planar runout is the spec. I'm at .012 > and am challenged to get it closer, even after moving engine around on > stringers. > If the rest is rubber mounted, and i can manually shake/deflect it by more > than that, is .008 a little precise...for a rubber mounted system? > Wont natural centrifugal motion align it? Or can then expect those > buashings to tear themaelves up? > > Thanks. > ...tom > >

Tom .003 is the setting that I use Sometimes you have to noch the mount To get to the tollrence..if you mount is not New or oil soaked. .you need new one..s 008 will work for a time but is hard On cutlass bering. And you can score Shaft..it seem 's like it's close try Resort torking. Mounts to bed Then you can shim mount 's to block.. A professional know 's all the tricks Some time 's you have to cut an ear Of the mount..on Caliente I messed With it two days then had a Professional Help.. he said where are old mount 's He found one that had ear grounddown. Popped that out ground conner off He was done in 20 30 mints.. I also seen people who bolt cupping Together then put mount blots in Take cupping apart and check it.. If your mount s are. Bad or if Shaft log Is not in line with (our s had been Re glasses at 5° angle..and with new mounts Would knot come into range..) I know it's hard to see and you move One thing but it doesn't change The way you need it to.. Good luck ..patients and preservance. Also I use a mirror and a single long Gauge. .Edward On Fri, Dec 30, 2016, 4:34 PM Allen Edwards al… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > My engine is hard mounted so I don't have the rubber mounts. The > specification is that I cannot insert a .003 feeler gauge in any gap on the > flange. I think you are getting credit for the rubber mounts in the .008 > spec. > > What I had to do was measure the alignment horizontal, vertical, and tilt > and then model it with a 3-d drawing and then move the engine in the cad > program and see what shims I needed to get it where it should be. > Alternatively, you can just add a shim and see if it helps or hurts and > keep doing that until you are better than .008. > > Maybe someone else can answer the question you actually asked... > > > On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 12:53 PM, TD tb… [at] verizon.net [Cal_Boats] < > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > > Hello, > Engine in, wiring connected, some new fuel and water lines and batteries > on charger. > While i'm waiting for that, i began the arduous chore of aligning the > engine with the prop shaft. > Engine and shaft are both rubber mounted. > My question: the manual says .008 planar runout is the spec. I'm at .012 > and am challenged to get it closer, even after moving engine around on > stringers. > If the rest is rubber mounted, and i can manually shake/deflect it by more > than that, is .008 a little precise...for a rubber mounted system? > Wont natural centrifugal motion align it? Or can then expect those > buashings to tear themaelves up? > > Thanks. > ...tom > > > >

HI Tom if you have a rubber coupling Does it have 6 bolts 3that go in engine Side and 3 that coming from Shaft Side...I believe that they areally "Self aligning " coupling... Have seen on farymen. .. Edward. On Dec 30, 2016 3:53 PM, "TD tb… [at] verizon.net [Cal_Boats]" < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hello, Engine in, wiring connected, some new fuel and water lines and batteries on charger. While i'm waiting for that, i began the arduous chore of aligning the engine with the prop shaft. Engine and shaft are both rubber mounted. My question: the manual says .008 planar runout is the spec. I'm at .012 and am challenged to get it closer, even after moving engine around on stringers. If the rest is rubber mounted, and i can manually shake/deflect it by more than that, is .008 a little precise...for a rubber mounted system? Wont natural centrifugal motion align it? Or can then expect those buashings to tear themaelves up? Thanks. ...tom