multitool choices and Jerry

Sorry if this is TMI; Ihave two Milwaukie 12v tools, a right angle drill and their multitool. While I am not thrilled with the dinky m12 battery due to how it inserts in the tools, I do love the light weight of these two, and the variable speeds give major control. As a cabinet maker and boat/woodworker, I find these do trim, cut wood, even use it for tile cuts with the right blade. However I bought and returned an 18v Ryobi that was literally sloppy, tried a harbor freight plug-in, whose center screw can't go deep enough if you use an adapter for odd blades and loosens, spins off the screw and blades. These last two have so little stability, fight your grip, and jump away from the cut. Think cut finger or wrist, and messed up cut, not precision. To Jerry, as Chris says, take detached tabbing back to hull. The multi can cut it off nicely (using a fair number of blades because fg is brutal on them) and sand, wipe with acetone and use the tape and epoxy mix. There may be a normal small gap between bulkhead and hull, I would put a piece of filler foam, to keep from trying to fill it with the cloth or goo, and do the hull to the bulkhead layer first, then the bulkhead overlap over the gap. Use 6 inch fg tape, so the gap and a little more have a two layer thickness. Use masking tape to guide your line and keep from overflow. As said ,do in sections to keep stability, and work from the bottom up. TAP plastics has different size fg tapes, nice clean edges. Remember the strength is in the fabric, not the goo, but paint a little goo on surfaces before applying wet cloth, then use an acid brush to "burp" and spread material. If you can get the polyester material called peeloff, and smooth it on top of the job, you can squeegee the excess resin out, let it sit on top and later, when you pull it off, no blush, no sanding! Easy to go on to next section. Helen Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

I love the Bosch 12V tools. I think I have one of each one. They have a multi tool as part of the series. I highly recommend it. The reciprocating saw is great for trimming trees too. The last one I got is the jig saw and the light. The light is amazingly handy on the boat. Allen On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 9:21 PM, Helen Horn he… [at] sbcglobal.net [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > Sorry if this is TMI; Ihave two Milwaukie 12v tools, a right angle drill > and their multitool. While I am not thrilled with the dinky m12 battery > due to how it inserts in the tools, I do love the light weight of these > two, and the variable speeds give major control. As a cabinet maker and > boat/woodworker, I find these do trim, cut wood, even use it for tile cuts > with the right blade. However I bought and returned an 18v Ryobi that was > literally sloppy, tried a harbor freight plug-in, whose center screw can't > go deep enough if you use an adapter for odd blades and loosens, spins off > the screw and blades. These last two have so little stability, fight your > grip, and jump away from the cut. Think cut finger or wrist, and messed up > cut, not precision. To Jerry, as Chris says, take detached tabbing back > to hull. The multi can cut it off nicely (using a fair number of blades > because fg is brutal on them) and sand, wipe with acetone and use the tape > and epoxy mix. There may be a normal small gap between bulkhead and hull, > I would put a piece of filler foam, to keep from trying to fill it with > the cloth or goo, and do the hull to the bulkhead layer first, then the > bulkhead overlap over the gap. Use 6 inch fg tape, so the gap and a little > more have a two layer thickness. Use masking tape to guide your line and > keep from overflow. As said ,do in sections to keep stability, and work > from the bottom up. TAP plastics has different size fg tapes, nice clean > edges. Remember the strength is in the fabric, not the goo, but paint a > little goo on surfaces before applying wet cloth, then use an acid brush to > "burp" and spread material. If you can get the polyester material called > peeloff, and smooth it on top of the job, you can squeegee the excess resin > out, let it sit on top and later, when you pull it off, no blush, no > sanding! Easy to go on to next section. Helen > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android> > > >

Yes Allen, the 18v Ryobi set I use, with newer LI batteries, has a flashlight (which wipes out the batteries faster than any tool), a wanna be skil saw, try two charges for a crosscut of 1x6, but the drills and the brad nailer really work well. The reciprocating saw is now my tool of choice before my real chainsaw with all the fallen branches. Nice for fence work too. Because the electric Sawzall and extension cords were so awkward. And, the weedeaters, no pulling cords till arms ache, just swap batteries which recharge in about 30 mins. Love them. Almost an acre in a weekend! Helen Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 21:44, Allen Edwards al… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats]<Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: I love the Bosch 12V tools. I think I have one of each one. They have a multi tool as part of the series. I highly recommend it. The reciprocating saw is great for trimming trees too. The last one I got is the jig saw and the light. The light is amazingly handy on the boat. Allen On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 9:21 PM, Helen Horn he… [at] sbcglobal.net [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Sorry if this is TMI; Ihave two Milwaukie 12v tools, a right angle drill and their multitool. While I am not thrilled with the dinky m12 battery due to how it inserts in the tools, I do love the light weight of these two, and the variable speeds give major control. As a cabinet maker and boat/woodworker, I find these do trim, cut wood, even use it for tile cuts with the right blade. However I bought and returned an 18v Ryobi that was literally sloppy, tried a harbor freight plug-in, whose center screw can't go deep enough if you use an adapter for odd blades and loosens, spins off the screw and blades. These last two have so little stability, fight your grip, and jump away from the cut. Think cut finger or wrist, and messed up cut, not precision. To Jerry, as Chris says, take detached tabbing back to hull. The multi can cut it off nicely (using a fair number of blades because fg is brutal on them) and sand, wipe with acetone and use the tape and epoxy mix. There may be a normal small gap between bulkhead and hull, I would put a piece of filler foam, to keep from trying to fill it with the cloth or goo, and do the hull to the bulkhead layer first, then the bulkhead overlap over the gap. Use 6 inch fg tape, so the gap and a little more have a two layer thickness. Use masking tape to guide your line and keep from overflow. As said ,do in sections to keep stability, and work from the bottom up. TAP plastics has different size fg tapes, nice clean edges. Remember the strength is in the fabric, not the goo, but paint a little goo on surfaces before applying wet cloth, then use an acid brush to "burp" and spread material. If you can get the polyester material called peeloff, and smooth it on top of the job, you can squeegee the excess resin out, let it sit on top and later, when you pull it off, no blush, no sanding! Easy to go on to next section. Helen Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

Well, folks, the good news is that it's not the main bulkhead's tabs that have come loose. It's the forward bulkhead that's between the V berth and the 'chain locker' where I stow some sails. (me chain locker is under a storage bin under the V berth and opposite my new, absorbed mat 32 amp sealed battery that the Premier of Chin flew in personally from China-oh-I mean, the Amazon- on an old Pan American China Clipper.)Now, the bad news. The bad news is, that since I've got everyone's attention, I do have a little problem, that's gradually gotten worse over the last twenty some odd years (I know, 20 is even, isn't it?)My Mast sits above the main bukhead, but not quite above the main bulkhead. On the early Cal 24 Mk 1's, the main bulkhead is a several inches aft, and there's a nominal 3 by 6 piece of wood that runs forward, on which the mast actually sits. There's a curved 3 by 3 beam which takes the load from starboard to port. These beams are glassed over, and the first day I had the boat out, some twenty years ago, I did so in some fierce winds in Channel Islands harbor, and when I got back to the dock, I found there was a small tear in the fiberglass cloth which covers the junction between the bulkhead beam, and the forward beam, that wasn't there before. And over the past two decades the tear has gotten long and longer.So, I guess what I've go to do is cut the fiberglass away from this crack, see what's going on in the junction between these two beams, bevel the existing fiberglass, and re-glass the area. I've also thought of some other ways to reinforce the junction, mabye with a piece of aluminum "L" extrusion, Aluminum flat bar, or what have you, and not do the fiberglass work. As far as I can tell, the area hasn't sagged any yet from the weight of the mast, but obviously, there has to be some movement there up and down when the boat is under stress, to have created the tear, and to have made the tear larger as the years have gone by. The other tabbing issue I have is between the V-berth plywood deck and the hull, on the port side, the tabbing has stayed intact, but the fiberglass has split along the juncture along the curve for a few feet. Now this I've got to re-glass; no way around it. But, do I need to remove the tabbing from the plywood, or can I just remove the paint and apply new glass over the old glass if it's still stuck on to the hull and the plywood?I do have a Dremel Multi-tool, which I picked up shortly after Capt. Wilke raved about them a few years back, and I've got plenty of West Systems. But I think I've got plenty of motivational inertia, too.Jerry of Shpritz Cal 24-1, #71 of 1962, a later, build it yourself kit boat. On Monday, March 6, 2017 9:44 PM, "Allen Edwards al… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats]" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: I love the Bosch 12V tools. I think I have one of each one. They have a multi tool as part of the series. I highly recommend it. The reciprocating saw is great for trimming trees too. The last one I got is the jig saw and the light. The light is amazingly handy on the boat. Allen On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 9:21 PM, Helen Horn he… [at] sbcglobal.net [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Sorry if this is TMI; Ihave two Milwaukie 12v tools, a right angle drill and their multitool. While I am not thrilled with the dinky m12 battery due to how it inserts in the tools, I do love the light weight of these two, and the variable speeds give major control. As a cabinet maker and boat/woodworker, I find these do trim, cut wood, even use it for tile cuts with the right blade. However I bought and returned an 18v Ryobi that was literally sloppy, tried a harbor freight plug-in, whose center screw can't go deep enough if you use an adapter for odd blades and loosens, spins off the screw and blades. These last two have so little stability, fight your grip, and jump away from the cut. Think cut finger or wrist, and messed up cut, not precision. To Jerry, as Chris says, take detached tabbing back to hull. The multi can cut it off nicely (using a fair number of blades because fg is brutal on them) and sand, wipe with acetone and use the tape and epoxy mix. There may be a normal small gap between bulkhead and hull, I would put a piece of filler foam, to keep from trying to fill it with the cloth or goo, and do the hull to the bulkhead layer first, then the bulkhead overlap over the gap. Use 6 inch fg tape, so the gap and a little more have a two layer thickness. Use masking tape to guide your line and keep from overflow. As said ,do in sections to keep stability, and work from the bottom up. TAP plastics has different size fg tapes, nice clean edges. Remember the strength is in the fabric, not the goo, but paint a little goo on surfaces before applying wet cloth, then use an acid brush to "burp" and spread material. If you can get the polyester material called peeloff, and smooth it on top of the job, you can squeegee the excess resin out, let it sit on top and later, when you pull it off, no blush, no sanding! Easy to go on to next section. Helen Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On 3/7/2017 2:24 AM, Gerald Sobel so… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > My Mast sits above the main bukhead, but not quite above the main > bulkhead. On the early Cal 24 Mk 1's, the main bulkhead is a several > inches aft, and there's a nominal 3 by 6 piece of wood that runs > forward, on which the mast actually sits. There's a curved 3 by 3 beam > which takes the load from starboard to port. These beams are glassed > over, and the first day I had the boat out, some twenty years ago, I > did so in some fierce winds in Channel Islands harbor, and when I got > back to the dock, I found there was a small tear in the fiberglass > cloth which covers the junction between the bulkhead beam, and the > forward beam, that wasn't there before. And over the past two decades > the tear has gotten long and longer. Look at the mast and standing rigging. Whenever you (or the wind and sails) push sideways on that mast, the shrouds want to drive the mast DOWN. On my Cal 20, the beam under the mast step has been repaired, sistered with teak pieces on either side. Looks like a factory job but who knows. One of these springs before rigging I'll take a hydraulic jack and lift that beam just enough to slide some shims under the two compression posts, which have squashed the plywood that they sit on slightly. But the whole point is that there is a lot of leverage involved in our boat's rigs and just as much as the windward chainplate is being pulled up, the mast foot is pushing down. My other boat has a bulkhead under the mast step on deck, but there's a companionway through he bulkhead right in the middle. It was built with two heavy bronze angle sections, one on each side of the opening, spanning the opening and sandwiching the bulkhead. They deflect slightly under way but not enough to interfere with the door, so after 56 years of service I assume they engineered it adequately. But the whole point is just that this is a significant point of potential failure and you shouldn't ignore it if there's evidence of changes. > > > The other tabbing issue I have is between the V-berth plywood deck and > the hull, on the port side, the tabbing has stayed intact, but the > fiberglass has split along the juncture along the curve for a few > feet. Now this I've got to re-glass; no way around it. But, do I need > to remove the tabbing from the plywood, or can I just remove the paint > and apply new glass over the old glass if it's still stuck on to the > hull and the plywood? Sounds to me that if it's the fiberglass that failed, not the adhesion to the plywood, you're OK with re-glassing over the old stuff. Maybe you could try gently prying the old tabbing away from the plywood to see if you could just peel it off. If yes, that suggests that it's not adhered very well anyway (polyester resin instead of epoxy, likely). If it's stuck on stubbornly, just glass over. Sand a little bit first, etc. But it sounds like you're in a confined space where serious grinding would be an extremely unpleasant experience. Chris Campbell