33-2 broken gearshift cable

Greetings, The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting to bite off more than I should. I would appreciate any thoughts. -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2

I have been all through my 33-2 and wouldn't hesitate replacing that cable. Mine is all open right now due to the cable routing I'm doing for autopilot and radar up the pedestal and all through the boat. I can take pictures of the shift cable this weekend were it routes under the stern birth, exits pedestal base and such. An exploded view of the pedestal would help you regarding how much work that part is. I'm sure that could be found on the web. Leslie Puffin 86 Cal 33-2 On Monday, May 8, 2017, dh… [at] gmail.com <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','dh… [at] gmail.com');> [Cal_Boats] < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com');>> wrote: > > > Greetings, > > > The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) > and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already > tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous > routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it > enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then > reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that > panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. > Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the > pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. > > > Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a > trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting > to bite off more than I should. > > > I would appreciate any thoughts. > > > -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2 > > >

Try a place called Go2Marine. I got an excellent price on a shifting cable for myCal29 On Monday, May 8, 2017 10:51 PM, "NEWMAN d2… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats]" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: I have been all through my 33-2 and wouldn't hesitate replacing that cable. Mine is all open right now due to the cable routing I'm doing for autopilot and radar up the pedestal and all through the boat. I can take pictures of the shift cable this weekend were it routes under the stern birth, exits pedestal base and such. An exploded view of the pedestal would help you regarding how much work that part is. I'm sure that could be found on the web. Leslie Puffin 86 Cal 33-2 On Monday, May 8, 2017, dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Greetings, The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting to bite off more than I should. I would appreciate any thoughts. -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2

I replaced our cables about 15 years ago. Same issue, shift cable broken at the attachment to the shift lever. The PO had replaced the cable at some point and had cut two square holes in the pedestal each side of the cable attachment. (small plastic piece midway of the pedestal, held on with a locknut on the exterior) this allowed access to the cotter pin that secured the cables to the clamp. This may seem like a bright idea, but removal, and replacement was a pain. I resolved to the other solution which was complete removal of wheel, gear and shaft. I felt like it was quicker than trying to work through the two small openings. I think the PO was a dentist or Proctologist 😊 FYI our morse 33c cables were as follows: -shift cable 156 -throttle 180 This is marked on one end of the cable only

We just did our 33.2 cables a week ago. You dont have to remove the chain and wheel. But lift the chain off the upper sprocket and move it out of the way by pushing it forward. Then the little piece that attached halfway up the pedestool needs to be turned around 180 degrees to get it through there. It easy if done exactly like that. Feel free to call me with any questions.Matthew 86 cal 33.2 Warm Winds. Currently in Titusville FL!256-263-7764 From: "jr… [at] triad.rr.com [Cal_Boats]" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> To: "dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats]" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 8:11 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] 33-2 broken gearshift cable [1 Attachment] [Attachment(s) from jr… [at] triad.rr.com included below] I replaced our cables about 15 years ago. Same issue, shift cable broken at the attachment to the shift lever. The PO had replaced the cable at some point and had cut two square holes in the pedestal each side of the cable attachment. (small plastic piece midway of the pedestal, held on with a locknut on the exterior) this allowed access to the cotter pin that secured the cables to the clamp. This may seem like a bright idea, but removal, and replacement was a pain. I resolved to the other solution which was complete removal of wheel, gear and shaft. I felt like it was quicker than trying to work through the two small openings. I think the PO was a dentist or Proctologist 😊 FYI our morse 33c cables were as follows:-shift cable 156-throttle 180This is marked on one end of the cable only From the top down:-Remove the compass shroud, compass and light.-the steering chain has a removable link. Should be on top center when rudder is straight.-I used some wire to keep chain from falling down in the pedestal and keep tension on the cables around the steering quadrant on the rudder-chain sprocket has a roll pin securing it to the shaft-loosen wheel brake as far as possible-plastic shims on each end have a small v notch that aligns with the keyway on the shaft-shaft removes toward the wheel, catch shims as the shaft is removed.-cable clamp is now accessible, remove locknut and you should have enough slack to get the clamp where you can reach the cotter pin to release the cables from the bracket. From below:-remove overhead panel in rear berth exposing bottom of pedestal (look for washers, cotter pins and tools dropped down the pedestal)-remove engine cover, loosen rear cover (screws to flooring only, you should not have to remove fuel filter assembly or completely remove this cover)-remove berth flooring panel directly behind engine, and -remove shift cable at transmission lever (cotter pin)-remove cable clamp at bracket. (mine was well rusted from shaft/stuffing box drip and slinging water, spray liberally with PB Blaster) -cable routing through bulkheads should be clearly visible, and easily removed and rerouting of new cables-check all wiring and plumbing since you have everything visible and accessible I would recommend replacing both cables while everything is apart. Reinstall everything in reverse order. Save overhead panel in the rear berth for last, in case you drop tools or parts down the pedestal 😉 Expect a full day to do this work, and have replacement cable(s) in hand before you start. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 8:07 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] 33-2 broken gearshift cable Greetings, The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting to bite off more than I should. I would appreciate any thoughts. -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2 -- {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} {margin-bottom:10px;} .yiv0578663314ad {padding:0 0;} .yiv0578663314ad p {margin:0;} .yiv0578663314ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} {font-family:Arial;} {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} .yiv0578663314ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;} {font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;} {background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;} span {font-weight:700;} span:first-child {text-transform:uppercase;} span a {color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;} span span {color:#ff7900;} span .yiv0578663314underline {text-decoration:underline;} .yiv0578663314attach {clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px 0;width:400px;} .yiv0578663314attach div a {text-decoration:none;} .yiv0578663314attach img {border:none;padding-right:5px;} .yiv0578663314attach label {display:block;margin-bottom:5px;} .yiv0578663314attach label a {text-decoration:none;} blockquote {margin:0 0 0 4px;} .yiv0578663314bold {font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;} .yiv0578663314bold a {text-decoration:none;} dd.yiv0578663314last p a {font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv0578663314last p span {margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv0578663314last p span.yiv0578663314yshortcuts {margin-right:0;} div.yiv0578663314attach-table div div a {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv0578663314attach-table {width:400px;} div.yiv0578663314file-title a, div.yiv0578663314file-title a:active, div.yiv0578663314file-title a:hover, div.yiv0578663314file-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv0578663314photo-title a, div.yiv0578663314photo-title a:active, div.yiv0578663314photo-title a:hover, div.yiv0578663314photo-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div p a span.yiv0578663314yshortcuts {font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;} .yiv0578663314green {color:#628c2a;} .yiv0578663314MsoNormal {margin:0 0 0 0;} o {font-size:0;} div {float:left;width:72px;} div div {border:1px solid #666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;} div label {color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;} {font-size:77%;} {font-size:77%;} .yiv0578663314replbq {margin:4px;} div a:first-child {margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;} {font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} table {font-size:inherit;font:100%;} select, input, textarea {font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} pre, code {font:115% monospace;} * {line-height:1.22em;} {padding-bottom:10px;} p a {font-family:Verdana;} p span {color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;} {color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;} {margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;} li a {font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;} li {font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;} ul {margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;} {font-family:Georgia;} p {margin:0 0 1em 0;} tt {font-size:120%;} ul li:last-child {border-right:none !important;}

Awesome explanation. Thanks much for that. Looking at the (very small) size of the part of the cable that broke I wonder if this was designed to break easily. Reason I say that is in the Edson technical info they warn to assure engine is at idle rpm before attempting a shift. I’m guessing this is to protect the transmission. Like a shear pin, better to break a relatively inexpensive part than the very expensive one. The trans will resist shifting if the RPM is too high. I don’t *think* I abused the shift cable in this way but cannot remember perfectly. I may be at fault! Thanks again, -Doug > On May 9, 2017, at 8:11 AM, jr… [at] triad.rr.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > [Attachment(s) from jr… [at] triad.rr.com included below] > > I replaced our cables about 15 years ago. Same issue, shift cable broken at the attachment to the shift lever. > > > > The PO had replaced the cable at some point and had cut two square holes in the pedestal each side of the cable attachment. (small plastic piece midway of the pedestal, held on with a locknut on the exterior) this allowed access to the cotter pin that secured the cables to the clamp. This may seem like a bright idea, but removal, and replacement was a pain. I resolved to the other solution which was complete removal of wheel, gear and shaft. I felt like it was quicker than trying to work through the two small openings. I think the PO was a dentist or Proctologist 😊 > > > > FYI our morse 33c cables were as follows: > > -shift cable 156 > > -throttle 180 > > This is marked on one end of the cable only > > > > From the top down: > > -Remove the compass shroud, compass and light. > > -the steering chain has a removable link. Should be on top center when rudder is straight. > > -I used some wire to keep chain from falling down in the pedestal and keep tension on the cables around the steering quadrant on the rudder > > -chain sprocket has a roll pin securing it to the shaft > > -loosen wheel brake as far as possible > > -plastic shims on each end have a small v notch that aligns with the keyway on the shaft > > -shaft removes toward the wheel, catch shims as the shaft is removed. > > -cable clamp is now accessible, remove locknut and you should have enough slack to get the clamp where you can reach the cotter pin to release the cables from the bracket. > > > > From below: > > -remove overhead panel in rear berth exposing bottom of pedestal (look for washers, cotter pins and tools dropped down the pedestal) > > -remove engine cover, loosen rear cover (screws to flooring only, you should not have to remove fuel filter assembly or completely remove this cover) > > -remove berth flooring panel directly behind engine, and > > -remove shift cable at transmission lever (cotter pin) > > -remove cable clamp at bracket. (mine was well rusted from shaft/stuffing box drip and slinging water, spray liberally with PB Blaster) > > -cable routing through bulkheads should be clearly visible, and easily removed and rerouting of new cables > > -check all wiring and plumbing since you have everything visible and accessible > > > > I would recommend replacing both cables while everything is apart. > > > > Reinstall everything in reverse order. Save overhead panel in the rear berth for last, in case you drop tools or parts down the pedestal 😉 > > > > Expect a full day to do this work, and have replacement cable(s) in hand before you start. > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > From: dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] > Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 8:07 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Cal_Boats] 33-2 broken gearshift cable > > > > > > Greetings, > > > > The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. > > > > Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting to bite off more than I should. > > > > I would appreciate any thoughts. > > > > -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2 > > > > > >

Thanks Leslie (and thanks to others), I found the exploded view. You are right, it helps a lot. What I didn’t know was the detail of the internal bracket that clamps *both* shift and throttle cables at a point several inches below the steering wheel shaft. Both cables must be disconnected, the clamp must be detached from the pedestal via the single nut on the lower outside of the pedestal, and then both cables pushed down then up on one side past the chain gear sprocket to gain access to the cables clamp. Got it. Does not look too hard, just a bit tedious. Photos not necessary. -Doug > On May 8, 2017, at 10:18 PM, NEWMAN <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > I have been all through my 33-2 and wouldn't hesitate replacing that cable. Mine is all open right now due to the cable routing I'm doing for autopilot and radar up the pedestal and all through the boat. I can take pictures of the shift cable this weekend were it routes under the stern birth, exits pedestal base and such. An exploded view of the pedestal would help you regarding how much work that part is. I'm sure that could be found on the web. > Leslie > Puffin 86 Cal 33-2 > > > On Monday, May 8, 2017, dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > Greetings, > > > > The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. > > > > Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting to bite off more than I should. > > > > I would appreciate any thoughts. > > > > -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2 > > >

Great. Most boat repairs aren't rocket science. If you are good with your hands and can logically figure stuff out (and have tools) you can do the repair. Thing is to take your time and never force anything. Leslie On Wednesday, May 10, 2017, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks Leslie (and thanks to others), > > I found the exploded view. You are right, it helps a lot. What I didn’t > know was the detail of the internal bracket that clamps *both* shift and > throttle cables at a point several inches below the steering wheel shaft. > Both cables must be disconnected, the clamp must be detached from the > pedestal via the single nut on the lower outside of the pedestal, and then > both cables pushed down then up on one side past the chain gear sprocket to > gain access to the cables clamp. Got it. Does not look too hard, just a bit > tedious. Photos not necessary. > > -Doug > > > > > On May 8, 2017, at 10:18 PM, NEWMAN <d2… [at] gmail.com <javascript:;>> > wrote: > > > > I have been all through my 33-2 and wouldn't hesitate replacing that > cable. Mine is all open right now due to the cable routing I'm doing for > autopilot and radar up the pedestal and all through the boat. I can take > pictures of the shift cable this weekend were it routes under the stern > birth, exits pedestal base and such. An exploded view of the pedestal > would help you regarding how much work that part is. I'm sure that could be > found on the web. > > Leslie > > Puffin 86 Cal 33-2 > > > > > > On Monday, May 8, 2017, dh… [at] gmail.com <javascript:;> > [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <javascript:;>> wrote: > > > > Greetings, > > > > > > > > The gearshift cable broke today (separate throttle and gearshift levers) > and I'm wondering about the difficulty of replacing it myself. Already > tried a teardown to get to the cable but it seems to have a tortuous > routing starting from the transmission end about 3 feet back where it > enters a hole in a vertical panel (inside panel of aft berth) and then > reappears aft to enter the pedestal from the bottom. Access to behind that > panel looks very difficult. The cable seems stiff and hard to remove. > Perhaps worse, it looks like accessing the cable end from the top of the > pedestal requires removing the steering wheel shaft and chain. > > > > > > > > Anyone try changing this cable themselves or am I better off letting a > trained/experienced mechanic do it? I am handy with tools, but not wanting > to bite off more than I should. > > > > > > > > I would appreciate any thoughts. > > > > > > > > -Doug 1987 Cal 33-2 > > > > > > > >

Both cables are removed. About a 3 hour job. New cables arrive Tuesday. I don’t expect installation problems. Wound up removing the chain master link and tying each chain end out of the way at the 10:00 and 02:00 positions. It was then very easy to see what I was doing and the bolt/bracket easily slid up past the bare sprocket. I know there are ways described to do it without separating the chain, but I just decided to do it this way. Thanks to everyone for convincing me that the job is not hard. You were right! -Doug p.s., The literature I’ve read says now would be a good time to check/lubricate the wire cable pulley sheaves(axles). Makes sense because I have the wire cable slackened. But the sheaves for the pulleys look to be located *above* the metal plate at the very bottom of the pedestal. Not sure how to get at them other than removing the pedestal from the cockpit floor(yikes). Also read that it is a good idea to upgrade from the old style brass sheaves to the new stainless steel. Has anyone done this and if so how? (Sorry about all the questions, but you guys clearly know what you are doing). > On May 10, 2017, at 2:20 PM, NEWMAN <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > Great. Most boat repairs aren't rocket science. If you are good with your hands and can logically figure stuff out (and have tools) you can do the repair. Thing is to take your time and never force anything. > Leslie > > On Wednesday, May 10, 2017, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks Leslie (and thanks to others), > > I found the exploded view. You are right, it helps a lot. What I didn’t know was the detail of the internal bracket that clamps *both* shift and throttle cables at a point several inches below the steering wheel shaft. Both cables must be disconnected, the clamp must be detached from the pedestal via the single nut on the lower outside of the pedestal, and then both cables pushed down then up on one side past the chain gear sprocket to gain access to the cables clamp. Got it. Does not look too hard, just a bit tedious. Photos not necessary.

Hello everyone, Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is extremely buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with it and am looking for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we could get a used one? I did call sailors exchange in St Augustine Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our current boom is 13'. Matthew -- {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} {margin-bottom:10px;} .yiv8882878983ad {padding:0 0;} .yiv8882878983ad p {margin:0;} .yiv8882878983ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} {font-family:Arial;} {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} .yiv8882878983ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;} {font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;} {background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;} span {font-weight:700;} span:first-child {text-transform:uppercase;} span a {color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;} span span {color:#ff7900;} span .yiv8882878983underline {text-decoration:underline;} .yiv8882878983attach {clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px 0;width:400px;} .yiv8882878983attach div a {text-decoration:none;} .yiv8882878983attach img {border:none;padding-right:5px;} .yiv8882878983attach label {display:block;margin-bottom:5px;} .yiv8882878983attach label a {text-decoration:none;} blockquote {margin:0 0 0 4px;} .yiv8882878983bold {font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;} .yiv8882878983bold a {text-decoration:none;} dd.yiv8882878983last p a {font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv8882878983last p span {margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv8882878983last p span.yiv8882878983yshortcuts {margin-right:0;} div.yiv8882878983attach-table div div a {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv8882878983attach-table {width:400px;} div.yiv8882878983file-title a, div.yiv8882878983file-title a:active, div.yiv8882878983file-title a:hover, div.yiv8882878983file-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv8882878983photo-title a, div.yiv8882878983photo-title a:active, div.yiv8882878983photo-title a:hover, div.yiv8882878983photo-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div p a span.yiv8882878983yshortcuts {font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;} .yiv8882878983green {color:#628c2a;} .yiv8882878983MsoNormal {margin:0 0 0 0;} o {font-size:0;} div {float:left;width:72px;} div div {border:1px solid #666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;} div label {color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;} {font-size:77%;} {font-size:77%;} .yiv8882878983replbq {margin:4px;} div a:first-child {margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;} {font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} table {font-size:inherit;font:100%;} select, input, textarea {font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} pre, code {font:115% monospace;} * {line-height:1.22em;} {padding-bottom:10px;} p a {font-family:Verdana;} p span {color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;} {color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;} {margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;} li a {font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;} li {font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;} ul {margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;} {font-family:Georgia;} p {margin:0 0 1em 0;} tt {font-size:120%;} ul li:last-child {border-right:none !important;}

Try on the web a place called massmarine. A marine graveyard in Massachusets with lots of stuff. On Monday, May 15, 2017 11:49 AM, "matthew ma… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats]" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hello everyone, Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is extremely buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with it and am looking for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we could get a used one? I did call sailors exchange in St Augustine Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our current boom is 13'. Matthew -- {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} {margin-bottom:10px;} .yiv7617021459ad {padding:0 0;} .yiv7617021459ad p {margin:0;} .yiv7617021459ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} {font-family:Arial;} {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} .yiv7617021459ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;} {font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;} {background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;} span {font-weight:700;} span:first-child {text-transform:uppercase;} span a {color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;} span span {color:#ff7900;} span .yiv7617021459underline {text-decoration:underline;} .yiv7617021459attach {clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px 0;width:400px;} .yiv7617021459attach div a {text-decoration:none;} .yiv7617021459attach img {border:none;padding-right:5px;} .yiv7617021459attach label {display:block;margin-bottom:5px;} .yiv7617021459attach label a {text-decoration:none;} blockquote {margin:0 0 0 4px;} .yiv7617021459bold {font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;} .yiv7617021459bold a {text-decoration:none;} dd.yiv7617021459last p a {font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv7617021459last p span {margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;} dd.yiv7617021459last p span.yiv7617021459yshortcuts {margin-right:0;} div.yiv7617021459attach-table div div a {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv7617021459attach-table {width:400px;} div.yiv7617021459file-title a, div.yiv7617021459file-title a:active, div.yiv7617021459file-title a:hover, div.yiv7617021459file-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div.yiv7617021459photo-title a, div.yiv7617021459photo-title a:active, div.yiv7617021459photo-title a:hover, div.yiv7617021459photo-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;} div p a span.yiv7617021459yshortcuts {font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;} .yiv7617021459green {color:#628c2a;} .yiv7617021459MsoNormal {margin:0 0 0 0;} o {font-size:0;} div {float:left;width:72px;} div div {border:1px solid #666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;} div label {color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;} {font-size:77%;} {font-size:77%;} .yiv7617021459replbq {margin:4px;} div a:first-child {margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;} {font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} table {font-size:inherit;font:100%;} select, input, textarea {font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} pre, code {font:115% monospace;} * {line-height:1.22em;} {padding-bottom:10px;} p a {font-family:Verdana;} p span {color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;} {color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;} {margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;} li a {font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;} li {font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;} ul {margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;} {font-family:Georgia;} p {margin:0 0 1em 0;} tt {font-size:120%;} ul li:last-child {border-right:none !important;}

You should have a Isomat spar. Google should give you several resources. If you are going to run new reef line external of the boom, your current boom section should stay the same. I think RigRite is an east coast sales for parts and isomat. John Raxter 336-210-8073 (m) On May 15, 2017, at 11:45 AM, matthew ma… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hello everyone, Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is extremely buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with it and am looking for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we could get a used one? I did call sailors exchange in St Augustine Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our current boom is 13'. Matthew

I have a 13 footer sold with the boat I bought and I was about to cut it down. If you can find me a 10'3" that I actually need for my 2-27 then we can swap. Don On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:45 AM, matthew ma… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > Hello everyone, > Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is extremely > buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with it and am looking > for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we could get a used one? I did > call sailors exchange in St Augustine Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our > current boom is 13'. > > Matthew > > > -- *Donald J Thomas* Broker Associate *LIV Sotheby's International Realty* 101 S. Main St. Breckenridge, Colorado 970-409-9133 www.teamthomasmountainhomes.com

I have a boom [ and mast] from a 2-27 in CT. Joe DeMers On 5/15/17 2:22 PM, Donald Thomas dn… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > > I have a 13 footer sold with the boat I bought and I was about to cut > it down. If you can find me a 10'3" that I actually need for my 2-27 > then we can swap. Don > > On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:45 AM, matthew ma… [at] yahoo.com > <mailto:ma… [at] yahoo.com> [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>> wrote: > > Hello everyone, > Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is > extremely buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with > it and am looking for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we > could get a used one? I did call sailors exchange in St Augustine > Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our current boom is 13'. > > Matthew > > > > > -- > *Donald J Thomas* > Broker Associate > *LIV Sotheby's International Realty* > 101 S. Main St. > Breckenridge, Colorado > 970-409-9133 > www.teamthomasmountainhomes.com <http://www.teamthomasmountainhomes.com> > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

Matthew it looks like Joe has one for me and I can set you up with mine which is 13 if you're interested. Don On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:45 AM, matthew ma… [at] yahoo.com [Cal_Boats] < Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > Hello everyone, > Warm winds has a sailtainer in boom furling system that is extremely > buggy and jams in several places. We are doing away with it and am looking > for a regular boom. Does anyone know where we could get a used one? I did > call sailors exchange in St Augustine Fl and they have one thats 12.9 our > current boom is 13'. > > Matthew > > > -- *Donald J Thomas* Broker Associate *LIV Sotheby's International Realty* 101 S. Main St. Breckenridge, Colorado 970-409-9133 www.teamthomasmountainhomes.com

Talked to Edson. They say all I need do is remove the four large pedestal nuts from beneath the deck and lower the metal plate. This will give me access to the sheave axles. The pedestal bedding compound and the 4 mounting bolts should keep the pedestal in place. Replacement sheave axles (ss) can be ordered by noting the sheave mount casting p/n’s. They think it is an easy job, especially since I’ve already loosened the wire cables. We’ll see. -Doug > On May 13, 2017, at 8:22 PM, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > Both cables are removed. About a 3 hour job. New cables arrive Tuesday. I don’t expect installation problems. > > Wound up removing the chain master link and tying each chain end out of the way at the 10:00 and 02:00 positions. It was then very easy to see what I was doing and the bolt/bracket easily slid up past the bare sprocket. I know there are ways described to do it without separating the chain, but I just decided to do it this way. Thanks to everyone for convincing me that the job is not hard. You were right! > > -Doug > > p.s., The literature I’ve read says now would be a good time to check/lubricate the wire cable pulley sheaves(axles). Makes sense because I have the wire cable slackened. But the sheaves for the pulleys look to be located *above* the metal plate at the very bottom of the pedestal. Not sure how to get at them other than removing the pedestal from the cockpit floor(yikes). Also read that it is a good idea to upgrade from the old style brass sheaves to the new stainless steel. > > Has anyone done this and if so how? (Sorry about all the questions, but you guys clearly know what you are doing).

Interesting. IIRC, all sheaves are accessible above the overhead panel in the back berth, below the pedestal base. John Raxter 336-210-8073 (m) On May 16, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Doug Hoffman dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Talked to Edson. They say all I need do is remove the four large pedestal nuts from beneath the deck and lower the metal plate. This will give me access to the sheave axles. The pedestal bedding compound and the 4 mounting bolts should keep the pedestal in place. Replacement sheave axles (ss) can be ordered by noting the sheave mount casting p/n’s. They think it is an easy job, especially since I’ve already loosened the wire cables. We’ll see. -Doug > On May 13, 2017, at 8:22 PM, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > Both cables are removed. About a 3 hour job. New cables arrive Tuesday. I don’t expect installation problems. > > Wound up removing the chain master link and tying each chain end out of the way at the 10:00 and 02:00 positions. It was then very easy to see what I was doing and the bolt/bracket easily slid up past the bare sprocket. I know there are ways described to do it without separating the chain, but I just decided to do it this way. Thanks to everyone for convincing me that the job is not hard. You were right! > > -Doug > > p.s., The literature I’ve read says now would be a good time to check/lubricate the wire cable pulley sheaves(axles). Makes sense because I have the wire cable slackened. But the sheaves for the pulleys look to be located *above* the metal plate at the very bottom of the pedestal. Not sure how to get at them other than removing the pedestal from the cockpit floor(yikes). Also read that it is a good idea to upgrade from the old style brass sheaves to the new stainless steel. > > Has anyone done this and if so how? (Sorry about all the questions, but you guys clearly know what you are doing).

Here’s a photo of my sheaves taken from directly below the bottom of the pedestal. I think you can see that the sheave pins (axles) are not accessible without removing the metal plate. I.e., the pins are “inside” the pedestal bottom. -Doug > On May 16, 2017, at 11:29 AM, Jraxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: > > Interesting. IIRC, all sheaves are accessible above the overhead panel in the back berth, below the pedestal base. > > John Raxter > 336-210-8073 (m) > > On May 16, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Doug Hoffman dh… [at] gmail.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > Talked to Edson. They say all I need do is remove the four large pedestal nuts from beneath the deck and lower the metal plate. This will give me access to the sheave axles. The pedestal bedding compound and the 4 mounting bolts should keep the pedestal in place. Replacement sheave axles (ss) can be ordered by noting the sheave mount casting p/n’s. They think it is an easy job, especially since I’ve already loosened the wire cables. We’ll see. > > -Doug > > > On May 13, 2017, at 8:22 PM, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Both cables are removed. About a 3 hour job. New cables arrive Tuesday. I don’t expect installation problems. > > > > Wound up removing the chain master link and tying each chain end out of the way at the 10:00 and 02:00 positions. It was then very easy to see what I was doing and the bolt/bracket easily slid up past the bare sprocket. I know there are ways described to do it without separating the chain, but I just decided to do it this way. Thanks to everyone for convincing me that the job is not hard. You were right! > > > > -Doug > > > > p.s., The literature I’ve read says now would be a good time to check/lubricate the wire cable pulley sheaves(axles). Makes sense because I have the wire cable slackened. But the sheaves for the pulleys look to be located *above* the metal plate at the very bottom of the pedestal. Not sure how to get at them other than removing the pedestal from the cockpit floor(yikes). Also read that it is a good idea to upgrade from the old style brass sheaves to the new stainless steel. > > > > Has anyone done this and if so how? (Sorry about all the questions, but you guys clearly know what you are doing). > >

Edson was right. Dropping the metal plate by simply removing the 4 nuts from below was dead simple. Turns out I already had the ss pins, so I just lubed them and reassembled. Easy. Wire cables must be slack. New cable installation was not difficult, just tedious. I believe I found the root cause for the shift cable breaking. The transmission control lever was adjusted such that reverse required the lever lay almost all the way forward such that the cable had almost no mechanical advantage when pulling the cable back into neutral. Easily corrected by loosening the lever clamp bolt and repositioning the lever so neutral is lever at 90 degrees to cable. -Doug > On May 16, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > Talked to Edson. They say all I need do is remove the four large pedestal nuts from beneath the deck and lower the metal plate. This will give me access to the sheave axles. The pedestal bedding compound and the 4 mounting bolts should keep the pedestal in place. Replacement sheave axles (ss) can be ordered by noting the sheave mount casting p/n’s. They think it is an easy job, especially since I’ve already loosened the wire cables. We’ll see. > > -Doug > >> On May 13, 2017, at 8:22 PM, Doug Hoffman <dh… [at] gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Both cables are removed. About a 3 hour job. New cables arrive Tuesday. I don’t expect installation problems. >> >> Wound up removing the chain master link and tying each chain end out of the way at the 10:00 and 02:00 positions. It was then very easy to see what I was doing and the bolt/bracket easily slid up past the bare sprocket. I know there are ways described to do it without separating the chain, but I just decided to do it this way. Thanks to everyone for convincing me that the job is not hard. You were right! >> >> -Doug >> >> p.s., The literature I’ve read says now would be a good time to check/lubricate the wire cable pulley sheaves(axles). Makes sense because I have the wire cable slackened. But the sheaves for the pulleys look to be located *above* the metal plate at the very bottom of the pedestal. Not sure how to get at them other than removing the pedestal from the cockpit floor(yikes). Also read that it is a good idea to upgrade from the old style brass sheaves to the new stainless steel. >> >> Has anyone done this and if so how? (Sorry about all the questions, but you guys clearly know what you are doing). >