Windlass question

Folks: At last I must make a concession to age and replace my old but reliable double action manual windlass with an electric. (Plus, my dear wife is advocating for one.) I mainly cruise our 1969 Cal 34, Soufflé, with said dear wife in the lower and middle sections of the mighty Columbia River (between Bonneville Dam and Astoria), anchoring for the night, though we have cruised up in the San Juan Islands and plan to do more. I use a 35 pound CQR with 50' of 8mm HT chain and 5/16' rode. I keep the anchor on a bow roller. At present, I am looking at a Lewmar H2 but am open to suggestions as I am bothered by the high extra cost of Lewmar's emergency manual recovery mechanism. I am interested in people's thoughts on electric windlasses, with key issues being: - Brand and model (preferably horizontal with both gypsy and drum) - Whether to switch to longer chain to make retrieval easier by avoiding rope to chain issues at the gypsy and rode fall issues - Where to place the cleat for the rode (or do I use one of the bow cleats and use the remaining deck real estate for a chain stopper forward of the windlass?) - To use a dedicated separate battery stowed in the Cal 34's ample anchor locker or just run heavy gauge wires from my two Group 31 house batteries Phil Lewis Soufflé Portland, Oregon

Phil, I installed an H3 with recovery unit on my Cal 2-39 a few years ago. Following the PO's manual windlass installation, it is mounted on a bracket inside the anchor locker. Although more costly, I chose the H3 over the H2 because it offered more force with the same size and weight. I used a long run of # 2 wire and a 100 amp breaker to connect to the starting battery. The engine and alternator are active when using the windlass. One advantage to the H2/H3 units is the internal high-current controller. I have a chain rope splice, 90 ft 3/8 G4 chain, 300 ft 5/8 nylon rode. That's 100 # of chain. I've had no problems with the splice in the gypsy. I generally use the large bow cleat to secure the rode, or if really shallow use a nylon snubber with a chain hook. You will be happy with the H2. Regards, Duane Duane Knize S/V Marlyn 1978 Cal 2-39 #18 berthed: Emeryville, CA kn… [at] san.rr.com On 7/23/2018 11:57 PM, 'Philip A. Lewis' ph… [at] phillewis.com [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > Folks: > > At last I must make a concession to age and replace my old but > reliable double action manual windlass with an electric. (Plus, my > dear wife is advocating for one.) I mainly cruise our 1969 Cal 34, > Soufflé, with said dear wife in the lower and middle sections of the > mighty Columbia River (between Bonneville Dam and Astoria), anchoring > for the night, though we have cruised up in the San Juan Islands and > plan to do more. I use a 35 pound CQR with 50’ of 8mm HT chain and > 5/16’ rode. I keep the anchor on a bow roller. At present, I am > looking at a Lewmar H2 but am open to suggestions as I am bothered by > the high extra cost of Lewmar’s emergency manual recovery mechanism. > I am interested in people’s thoughts on electric windlasses, with key > issues being: > > -Brand and model (preferably horizontal with both gypsy and drum) > > -Whether to switch to longer chain to make retrieval easier by > avoiding rope to chain issues at the gypsy and rode fall issues > > -Where to place the cleat for the rode (or do I use one of the bow > cleats and use the remaining deck real estate for a chain stopper > forward of the windlass?) > > -To use a dedicated separate battery stowed in the Cal 34’s ample > anchor locker or just run heavy gauge wires from my two Group 31 house > batteries > > Phil Lewis > > Soufflé > > Portland, Oregon > >

The windlass saga continues, though its end is near. I finally concluded that I simply did not have the space to comfortably put a horizontal H2 or H3 or any other horizontal windlass on the foredeck of my 1969 Cal 34, Soufflé, and have settled on the Lewmar vertical CPX3, which has a 1000 watt motor. My boat has an ample chain locker and plenty of fall, so there should not be much of a problem with a vertical. I can keep my 50' of 8mm HT chain, and only have to get new rode. The idea of a rode/chain splice makes me nervous as I have always had a nicely spliced 3 strand onto a thimble, leaving only to have to worry about the shackles connecting the rode to the chain, but after almost 20 years all still looks good. I have chosen the CPX3 over the CPX2 (700 watts) on the advice of my merchant, to be on the safe side, and it will make it easier to convert to longer chain if desired. Once the trigger is pulled, all that will be left will be all the other installation decisions. Duane: your info has been helpful and appreciated. It also reminded me of that day in the summer of 1978 when, while furiously studying for the Oregon Bar exam I got a call from a friend from California to say he was coming to town to attend a launching party for a new Cal 39, and would I like to come along. The break from my studies was welcome, and I have never forgotten how taken I was by the boat. If memory serves, she was not intended to remain in Oregon for long, and I have not seen her since. My desire for a Cal continued until about 20 years ago when I finally acquired my own pride and joy. P. From: Duane Knize Boat [mailto:kn… [at] san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2018 12:01 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; Philip A. Lewis <ph… [at] phillewis.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Windlass question Phil, I installed an H3 with recovery unit on my Cal 2-39 a few years ago. Following the PO's manual windlass installation, it is mounted on a bracket inside the anchor locker. Although more costly, I chose the H3 over the H2 because it offered more force with the same size and weight. I used a long run of # 2 wire and a 100 amp breaker to connect to the starting battery. The engine and alternator are active when using the windlass. One advantage to the H2/H3 units is the internal high-current controller. I have a chain rope splice, 90 ft 3/8 G4 chain, 300 ft 5/8 nylon rode. That's 100 # of chain. I've had no problems with the splice in the gypsy. I generally use the large bow cleat to secure the rode, or if really shallow use a nylon snubber with a chain hook. You will be happy with the H2. Regards, Duane Duane Knize S/V Marlyn 1978 Cal 2-39 #18 berthed: Emeryville, CA kn… [at] san.rr.com<mailto:kn… [at] san.rr.com> On 7/23/2018 11:57 PM, 'Philip A. Lewis' ph… [at] phillewis.com<mailto:ph… [at] phillewis.com> [Cal_Boats] wrote: Folks: At last I must make a concession to age and replace my old but reliable double action manual windlass with an electric. (Plus, my dear wife is advocating for one.) I mainly cruise our 1969 Cal 34, Soufflé, with said dear wife in the lower and middle sections of the mighty Columbia River (between Bonneville Dam and Astoria), anchoring for the night, though we have cruised up in the San Juan Islands and plan to do more. I use a 35 pound CQR with 50' of 8mm HT chain and 5/16' rode. I keep the anchor on a bow roller. At present, I am looking at a Lewmar H2 but am open to suggestions as I am bothered by the high extra cost of Lewmar's emergency manual recovery mechanism. I am interested in people's thoughts on electric windlasses, with key issues being: - Brand and model (preferably horizontal with both gypsy and drum) - Whether to switch to longer chain to make retrieval easier by avoiding rope to chain issues at the gypsy and rode fall issues - Where to place the cleat for the rode (or do I use one of the bow cleats and use the remaining deck real estate for a chain stopper forward of the windlass?) - To use a dedicated separate battery stowed in the Cal 34's ample anchor locker or just run heavy gauge wires from my two Group 31 house batteries Phil Lewis Soufflé Portland, Oregon

Phillip, Don’t let the rope/chain splice worry you. There are plenty of YT videos to coach you. I have mage several on my anchor lines, and if I can muddle through it, you certainly can. And, if you can’t, I’ll bet that the outfit that sells you your new rode can. It would’t be that expensive. Fred Haas 3-30 Nemesis Tacoma > On Aug 6, 2018, at 11:23 PM, 'Philip A. Lewis' ph… [at] phillewis.com [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: > > > The windlass saga continues, though its end is near. I finally concluded that I simply did not have the space to comfortably put a horizontal H2 or H3 or any other horizontal windlass on the foredeck of my 1969 Cal 34, Soufflé, and have settled on the Lewmar vertical CPX3, which has a 1000 watt motor. My boat has an ample chain locker and plenty of fall, so there should not be much of a problem with a vertical. I can keep my 50’ of 8mm HT chain, and only have to get new rode. The idea of a rode/chain splice makes me nervous as I have always had a nicely spliced 3 strand onto a thimble, leaving only to have to worry about the shackles connecting the rode to the chain, but after almost 20 years all still looks good. I have chosen the CPX3 over the CPX2 (700 watts) on the advice of my merchant, to be on the safe side, and it will make it easier to convert to longer chain if desired. Once the trigger is pulled, all that will be left will be all the other installation decisions. > > > > Duane: your info has been helpful and appreciated. It also reminded me of that day in the summer of 1978 when, while furiously studying for the Oregon Bar exam I got a call from a friend from California to say he was coming to town to attend a launching party for a new Cal 39, and would I like to come along. The break from my studies was welcome, and I have never forgotten how taken I was by the boat. If memory serves, she was not intended to remain in Oregon for long, and I have not seen her since. My desire for a Cal continued until about 20 years ago when I finally acquired my own pride and joy. > > > > P. > > > > From: Duane Knize Boat [mailto:kn… [at] san.rr.com <mailto:kn… [at] san.rr.com>] > Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2018 12:01 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>; Philip A. Lewis <ph… [at] phillewis.com <mailto:ph… [at] phillewis.com>> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Windlass question > > > > Phil, > > I installed an H3 with recovery unit on my Cal 2-39 a few years ago. > > Following the PO's manual windlass installation, it is mounted on a bracket inside the anchor locker. > > Although more costly, I chose the H3 over the H2 because it offered more force with the same size and weight. > > I used a long run of # 2 wire and a 100 amp breaker to connect to the starting battery. The engine and alternator are active when using the windlass. > > One advantage to the H2/H3 units is the internal high-current controller.. > > I have a chain rope splice, 90 ft 3/8 G4 chain, 300 ft 5/8 nylon rode. That's 100 # of chain. I've had no problems with the splice in the gypsy. > > I generally use the large bow cleat to secure the rode, or if really shallow use a nylon snubber with a chain hook. > > You will be happy with the H2. > > Regards, > > Duane > > Duane Knize > S/V Marlyn > 1978 Cal 2-39 #18 > berthed: Emeryville, CA > kn… [at] san.rr.com <mailto:kn… [at] san.rr.com> > On 7/23/2018 11:57 PM, 'Philip A. Lewis' ph… [at] phillewis.com <mailto:ph… [at] phillewis.com> [Cal_Boats] wrote: > > > > Folks: > > > > At last I must make a concession to age and replace my old but reliable double action manual windlass with an electric. (Plus, my dear wife is advocating for one.) I mainly cruise our 1969 Cal 34, Soufflé, with said dear wife in the lower and middle sections of the mighty Columbia River (between Bonneville Dam and Astoria), anchoring for the night, though we have cruised up in the San Juan Islands and plan to do more. I use a 35 pound CQR with 50’ of 8mm HT chain and 5/16’ rode. I keep the anchor on a bow roller. At present, I am looking at a Lewmar H2 but am open to suggestions as I am bothered by the high extra cost of Lewmar’s emergency manual recovery mechanism. I am interested in people’s thoughts on electric windlasses, with key issues being: > > > > - Brand and model (preferably horizontal with both gypsy and drum) > > - Whether to switch to longer chain to make retrieval easier by avoiding rope to chain issues at the gypsy and rode fall issues > > - Where to place the cleat for the rode (or do I use one of the bow cleats and use the remaining deck real estate for a chain stopper forward of the windlass?) > > - To use a dedicated separate battery stowed in the Cal 34’s ample anchor locker or just run heavy gauge wires from my two Group 31 house batteries > > > > Phil Lewis > > Soufflé > > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > > > > > > > > >