ISO hull work on our good old boat

Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. We hope to avoid paying $$$$$ Annapolis prices. The boat is on the Bohemia River (far north end of the Bay) but we're willing to take it south to get a good deal on a quality job. I'd welcome leads on any recommended yards for this work. Thanks, Alfred Poor 1973 T34C #288 "Jambalaya (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod") ap… [at] verizon.net

Have you been storing the boat in the water year-round? When I bought my Cal 31, it had some blisters. After being on the hard over the first winter, however, the blisters disappeared. I had the old bottom paint removed and a barrier coat put on. No further issues with blisters, and I now take the boat out of the water every other winter. Harleigh Ewell From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 9:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. We hope to avoid paying $$$$$ Annapolis prices. The boat is on the Bohemia River (far north end of the Bay) but we're willing to take it south to get a good deal on a quality job. I'd welcome leads on any recommended yards for this work. Thanks, Alfred Poor 1973 T34C #288 "Jambalaya (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod") ap… [at] verizon.net <mailto:ap… [at] verizon.net>

Thanks, Harleigh. We also are on two-year cycles; we haul and paint one winter, and then leave the boat in the water for the next. We do our own bottom paint, so it was readily apparent that the blisters were a new development when we first spotted them two years ago. Alfred From: Harleigh Ewell <ha… [at] gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 1:48 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; ap… [at] verizon.net Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Have you been storing the boat in the water year-round? When I bought my Cal 31, it had some blisters. After being on the hard over the first winter, however, the blisters disappeared. I had the old bottom paint removed and a barrier coat put on. No further issues with blisters, and I now take the boat out of the water every other winter. Harleigh Ewell From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 9:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. We hope to avoid paying $$$$$ Annapolis prices. The boat is on the Bohemia River (far north end of the Bay) but we're willing to take it south to get a good deal on a quality job. I'd welcome leads on any recommended yards for this work. Thanks, Alfred Poor 1973 T34C #288 "Jambalaya (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod") ap… [at] verizon.net <mailto:ap… [at] verizon.net>

> > Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to > get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then > a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed > from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. > > > The latest edition of /Epoxyworks/, the publication of Gougeon Bros. (WEST System), had an article on de-poxing a hull for the second time. It was by a Gougeon employee, an active local sailor. Here's a link: > https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/gelcoat-blisters-fiberglass-boat/ Chris Campbell

Thanks for the link, Chris. Alfred From: ccampbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 3:47 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; ap… [at] verizon.net Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. The latest edition of Epoxyworks, the publication of Gougeon Bros. (WEST System), had an article on de-poxing a hull for the second time. It was by a Gougeon employee, an active local sailor. Here's a link: https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/gelcoat-blisters-fiberglass-boat/ Chris Campbell

So why do you want to get rid of the blisters? Class Racing? My humble opinion. Blisters are typically “in the original layup”, often from dry glass in the layup. If they are “cancer” and deep... then enjoy the boat instead of covering the eventual failure for $many thousand$. Peeling / dry out of substrate can take a year, unless very aggressive drying techniques are used like vacuum heat blankets. A catamaran I am familiar with took two years under vacuum pump with a nitrogen feed. I can show you pictures of failed epoxy peel jobs, where the epoxy is blown off by the residual moisture in the hull.. If they are shallow, then enjoy the boat for the next hundred years. If they bug you the I offer the below solution that will get you decades or more down the road... for a couple bucks, and minimal labor. If you do your own bottom then a 4” grinder with a radial flapper wheel (looks like a fan with 50 blades) can remove a blister in seconds. Grind until no fluid or white cloth is noted, rarely deep, sometimes 2x or more the original blister diameter. Wipe with solvent, then refill the area with “bondo” made for underwater, like Evercoat Everglass Kevlar putty, @ $30-60 bucks a gallon depending on where you shop. Short strand, fiberglass reinforced body filler. High strength, high build and waterproof which makes it excellent for repairing holes, rusted metal, body seams and shattered fiberglass. Contains ZNX-7T for superior adhesion and corrosion resistance to bare steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Blue cream hardener included. Shipped in 1 gallon can. The material can be mixed, applied and sanded in minutes. Epoxy products take up to 24 hours.. for the same process. I did a Cal 27 with over 200 blisters in 2 days. After 5 years, zero failure. Epoxy is very waterproof and often is blown back off the substrate, never ever use glass cloth for repairs it has low adhesion properties. If you have a deep one, then use the same material your boat was originally made of, vinyl ester resin and glass mat.. and fair that repair with the putty. Putty does not stick to epoxy, if you go that route. Vinyl ester you’ll have to shop for, 5 gallons use to cost me $160 Recall or investigate that Gelcoat is porous (talc and other fillers), vinyl ester is “waterproof” if you put a waterproof barrier coat over Gelcoat, then any barrier coat failure or moisture that gets under it, will cause goosebump blisters in the barrier coat. MHO *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ......….-_/) Timm Lessley On Oct 2, 2018, at 10:54 AM, 'Alfred Poor' ap… [at] verizon.net [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thanks, Harleigh. We also are on two-year cycles; we haul and paint one winter, and then leave the boat in the water for the next. We do our own bottom paint, so it was readily apparent that the blisters were a new development when we first spotted them two years ago. Alfred From: Harleigh Ewell <ha… [at] gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 1:48 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; ap… [at] verizon.net Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Have you been storing the boat in the water year-round? When I bought my Cal 31, it had some blisters. After being on the hard over the first winter, however, the blisters disappeared. I had the old bottom paint removed and a barrier coat put on. No further issues with blisters, and I now take the boat out of the water every other winter. Harleigh Ewell From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 9:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. We hope to avoid paying $$$$$ Annapolis prices. The boat is on the Bohemia River (far north end of the Bay) but we're willing to take it south to get a good deal on a quality job. I'd welcome leads on any recommended yards for this work. Thanks, Alfred Poor 1973 T34C #288 "Jambalaya (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod") ap… [at] verizon.net

Thanks for the advice, Timm. No, we’re not racers, but I am concerned about compromised hull integrity if the moisture starts attacking the resin in the fiberglass layups. (I’ve seen evidence of this in other boat hulls.) The problems of residual moisture behind a peel-and-barrier job are also a concern. Do you remember when the late Roger Jones was working on some new (osmotic? electrical?) process to draw moisture out of a peeled hull? I never heard just how far he got with the process. I’ve got a grinder with a flapper wheel and I’m not afraid to use it. We just my use your approach. All the best, Alfred From: Timm Lessley <ti… [at] gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 6:57 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com; Alfred Poor <ap… [at] verizon.net> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat So why do you want to get rid of the blisters? Class Racing? My humble opinion. Blisters are typically “in the original layup”, often from dry glass in the layup. If they are “cancer” and deep... then enjoy the boat instead of covering the eventual failure for $many thousand$. Peeling / dry out of substrate can take a year, unless very aggressive drying techniques are used like vacuum heat blankets. A catamaran I am familiar with took two years under vacuum pump with a nitrogen feed. I can show you pictures of failed epoxy peel jobs, where the epoxy is blown off by the residual moisture in the hull.. If they are shallow, then enjoy the boat for the next hundred years. If they bug you the I offer the below solution that will get you decades or more down the road... for a couple bucks, and minimal labor. If you do your own bottom then a 4” grinder with a radial flapper wheel (looks like a fan with 50 blades) can remove a blister in seconds. Grind until no fluid or white cloth is noted, rarely deep, sometimes 2x or more the original blister diameter. Wipe with solvent, then refill the area with “bondo” made for underwater, like Evercoat Everglass Kevlar putty, @ $30-60 bucks a gallon depending on where you shop. Short strand, fiberglass reinforced body filler. High strength, high build and waterproof which makes it excellent for repairing holes, rusted metal, body seams and shattered fiberglass. Contains ZNX-7T for superior adhesion and corrosion resistance to bare steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Blue cream hardener included. Shipped in 1 gallon can. The material can be mixed, applied and sanded in minutes. Epoxy products take up to 24 hours.. for the same process. I did a Cal 27 with over 200 blisters in 2 days. After 5 years, zero failure. Epoxy is very waterproof and often is blown back off the substrate, never ever use glass cloth for repairs it has low adhesion properties. If you have a deep one, then use the same material your boat was originally made of, vinyl ester resin and glass mat.. and fair that repair with the putty. Putty does not stick to epoxy, if you go that route. Vinyl ester you’ll have to shop for, 5 gallons use to cost me $160 Recall or investigate that Gelcoat is porous (talc and other fillers), vinyl ester is “waterproof” if you put a waterproof barrier coat over Gelcoat, then any barrier coat failure or moisture that gets under it, will cause goosebump blisters in the barrier coat. MHO *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ......….-_/) Timm Lessley On Oct 2, 2018, at 10:54 AM, 'Alfred Poor' ap… [at] verizon.net <mailto:ap… [at] verizon.net> [Cal_Boats] <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > wrote: Thanks, Harleigh. We also are on two-year cycles; we haul and paint one winter, and then leave the boat in the water for the next. We do our own bottom paint, so it was readily apparent that the blisters were a new development when we first spotted them two years ago. Alfred From: Harleigh Ewell <ha… [at] gmail.com <mailto:ha… [at] gmail.com> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 1:48 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> ; ap… [at] verizon.net <mailto:ap… [at] verizon.net> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Have you been storing the boat in the water year-round? When I bought my Cal 31, it had some blisters. After being on the hard over the first winter, however, the blisters disappeared. I had the old bottom paint removed and a barrier coat put on. No further issues with blisters, and I now take the boat out of the water every other winter. Harleigh Ewell From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 9:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] ISO hull work on our good old boat Our beloved Tartan T34C has developed the pox, and we're looking to get bids on either opening the blisters or doing a full peel, and then a new barrier coat. We may also want to get the old Awlgrip removed from the topsides since that needs repainting as well. We hope to avoid paying $$$$$ Annapolis prices. The boat is on the Bohemia River (far north end of the Bay) but we're willing to take it south to get a good deal on a quality job. I'd welcome leads on any recommended yards for this work. Thanks, Alfred Poor 1973 T34C #288 "Jambalaya (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod") ap… [at] verizon.net <mailto:ap… [at] verizon.net>